Approaching the finishing line - or is there another lap?

Like any race – it always seems to get a lot more energetic at the end.!!!!

On Saturday we went to our first Tanzanian wedding. We went by bus to a neighbouring village with the throng of bridesmaids and page boys. Here, most of the year, the bride doesn’t have to worry about what the weather will be like – only how to prevent the guests suffering in the sun during the outdoors ceremony. We havn’t had a drop of rain in Mvumi in the last 6 months – though we have been told it will hopefully come with a vengeance in November to February.

Although parts of the ceremony were similar to England, there were differences:
- the bride and groom walked up the aisle together, extremely slowly. In fact, throughout the service they walked to and from their seats (about 20 yards – 4 times??) at a snail’s pace, accompanied by their page boys and bridesmaids
- Although the guests laughed and enjoyed themselves, the bride and groom were extremely solemn and down cast throughout the service and the party afterwards. We assume it was to show how important the ceremony is, rather than not wanting to get married!!
- They each got their own marriage certificates
- There didn’t seem to be any speeches, except the bride said grace before the meal.

There was an MC who orchestrated the party (no dancing, all sat down as in a theatre to watch choirs and guests line up to give presents). Because of problems with the electricity, it didn’t start till about 9 pm and we ate at 12.30 am – our first food since breakfast

On Sunday we helped lead the English service at Dodoma Cathedral. Malcolm took part in a sketch based on how we tend to think we are still young but get less and less fit and die (still thinking we are young). Quite ironic – ever since he has been suffering from a bad hip and knee – he still insists he is only 25 however. Afterwards we had a farewell meal with friends at Dodoma’s best Chinese Restaurant.

Irene completed her filing project at the start of the week and has been able to pack up. Malcolm typically, however, has been spending hours trying to complete lots of things (should he have done so earlier?). The good news is:

- he managed to find the money to pay the September payroll, and the final payment of Tsh 7 million to clear the Magistrates Court case
- the auditor has completed the audit of the hospital’s main accounts and project account of the UK donors for the period ending June 2008. Although there are some issues the auditor is delighted he has had some proper accounts to audit for the first time in several years
- at about 6am on Thursday morning he prepared a draft Hospital budget that the Government required – at that time it may not make too much sense, but hopefully will be good enough.

On Friday we had two meetings with the Bishop. The first was a private discussion about the option of returning next year. We have already been invited by email by the Bishop, but won’t make our mind up until after we return to income. If we do return to Mvumi we hope it will be to support a permanent accountant, and once the problems have been resolved about some Departments withholding financial information about their activities.

And finally we had our last evening meal at the local restaurant, ‘Double J’s’. A feast of chipsi myayi (Chips omelette), caki, soda and milky coffee. Scrummy!!!!.

So work complete, suitcases almost packed – time to journey back:
- on Saturday we have a day out and visit a local vineyard with friends
- on Sunday a farewell to our church, and overnight in Dodoma
- on Monday we visit a neighbouring Diocese to see a Health Project which have invited us to work next year
- on Tuesday bus to Dar es Salaam
- Wednesday – fly back to England. We wonder if its warm there too?

Sprint for the Finish?

We have just a week to go in Mvumi, with lots of questions about what happens next.

We came back from Holiday expecting there would be a lot to do, and there is. One wonderful change was whilst she was away the filing staff had worked very hard to sort out the medical files. Any hope of carpenters arriving to insert additional shelving has gone and Irene wanted to rearrange the files into a proper order – and great progress had been made in her absence. Miracles do happen. And it should mean the clerks have more ownership of the system to continue it after we leave.

Malcolm is tackling the mountain of outstanding work. Time was spent with the auditor who seems delighted that this year he actually has some documents to audit!!! It seems likely that he will recommend that the Hospital reviews some systems.

And we have started to pack up. Our plan is to leave some things in Mvumi in case we come back – like Malcolm’s shoes which weren’t fit to bring here in the first place (now called his ‘Tanzanian shoes’). The problem will be making sure our luggage isn’t too heavy.

We have been invited by the Bishop to return so are considering this. We also, out of the blue, received an invitation from another Diocese to work at their health facility. It seems that a free accountant is a very attractive item (not that Malcolm has been called attractive for a long time). To find out more we hope to visit for a day on our way to Dar es Salaam to catch our flight home. We have decided not to decide whether to return to Tanzania, or where to work until we get back to England, clear our heads and talk with family and friends (who after a couple of months might be very pleased for us to return).

We have to sort out where we live in England in the short term. No house means finding somewhere to live temporarily. After a few weeks with family, they might even pay our fare back to Tanzania!!!

So, in addition to packing and tidying up work we also look forward to:
- being guests at a wedding on Saturday
- helping to lead a service at the Dodoma Cathedral on Sunday, followed by
- taking friends for a ‘farewell’ meal at the Dodoma Chinese Restaurant
- maybe Malcolm getting a Tanzanian hair cut before returning to meet his mother

Take a breather – and get overtaken!!!

We came back from holiday yesterday after a wonderful two weeks with David and his friend, Lucie. The last week was on the magical island of Zanzibar where we did all the touristy things:

- most of us (with one exception) spent time relaxing on the beach or by the pool
- we went on an enjoyable spice tour to see the varieties of spices grown on the island and to sample some local food
- we wandered around the main town (Stone Town) exploring the narrow allays and testing the restaurants and coffee houses
- Malcolm visited the remaining rain-forest and mangrove forest and walked among the unique red Colubus Monkeys, and dipped his hand into a nest of giant ants (the fool)

There was one complaint from Lucie – that we hadn’t explained in last weeks blog what a wonderful companion she was and how she livened up the conversation and holiday. So – Lucie was a wonderful companion and she really livened up the conversation and made the holiday more enjoyable for all of us.

We came back to Mvumi on Friday to discover that a lot had happened whilst we were away:
- after several delays the District Council finally visited the Ministry of Health in Dar es Salaam to discuss the transfer of the hospital to Designated District Hospital status. The Hospital’s chief nurse was involved and he also had separate meetings with the Civil servants. The good news is it seems that they have accepted all staff onto the Government payroll which should mean that in future there should be no more problems with the payment of their salaries, PAYE or National Insurance (if it actually happens).

- before Malcolm leaves in 2 weeks the Government want an updated budget so that they know what to fund. This needs to reflect that the Government will now pay for all drugs and many other costs but that some patients, such as children, expectant mothers and the elderly will not pay any charges, no-one will pay any more than 50% of the cost of medicines and the cost of major operations will increase.

- the Task Force Manager and Administrator met with the bishop to discuss hand-over arrangements and the future management of the Hospital. Malcolm understands the Bishop will want to see him next week.

The bad news was that whilst we were away not only did someone decide to demolish the door of an outside store to our house, but someone also broke into a neighbour’s house and stole a substantial sum of money and a lap-top. The most upsetting thing is that irreplaceable photos were saved on the lap-top.

Such is life in Tanzania (or probably most countries in the world, unfortunately).

So next week we return to work to close down our six months here:
- we hope to see the Bishop to discuss future options
- we start packing up – deciding what to take home and what to leave behind
- return to basic (economical) living again after a touch of luxury (expensive) e.g. Somewhere basic and simple (where we pay Tsh 500 for a bottle of coca cola at a restaurant) rather than the wonderful pampering, food and customer service at a luxurious place (where they charge Tsh 2,500 for a bottle of coca cola)

Taking a breather before the final straight

Time for a change of pace - and a change in cost!!!!!!

We are now half way through our holiday with son David and friend Lucie. I am afraid photos are going to have to wait as we havn't brought the technology with us. I am writing this in the Internet cafe of a Zanzibar hotel, on a rather hot and humid evening.

Its been a week of variation so far. On Saturday we met David and Lucie at Dodoma and brieefly showed them the city before driving to Mvumi. This was their chance to see real Africa. They excelled themselves on Sunday by introducing themselves to the church in fluent (as far as we could tell) Swahili and Chigogo.

On Monday we got up early to fly from MAF to Kilimanjaro for a start of a 3 day safari. It was like a starving man moving into a land of plenty. We stayed and ate in the best hotels in the area - what we paid for a coca cola would have bought a coke, chips omellette, a cake and a coffee in our restaurant in Mvumi (just over one pound).

We had two safaris - one in the forests around Lake Manyara and one in the Ngorongoro crater. These were excellent and it was surprising that the animals took no notice at all of the land-rovers - we expect because we were no threat to them. However, they rushed away from anybody on foot. The most exciting thing for Irene was that she was the first to spot a lion - even before the guide. It was about a mile away with only its head sticking above the grass. Must have been all the practice looking out for children in the past.

We then had a relaxing three nights at the Mama Clementina Foundation Hotel in Moshi. This is part of a charity which runs a secondary school for girls, focusing on vocational training. It is run by the parents of the Task force manager at Mvumi Hospital. They had asked if Malcolm would return to help them with developing the Financial Management so this was a good opportunity to see what the school is like.

And then the hardest leg of the holiday - a nine hour bus journey to Dar es Salaam and a night in a back-packers hotel before catching the ferry to Zanzibar - we are glad to have arrived.

And what of next week. We suspect not a lot!!!!! Lazying around Zanzibar - perhaps a few tours - who knows? On friday David and Lucie return to the UK and we return to dar es Salaam for our bus trip back to Mvumi on Saturday.

At times, life is hard!!!!!!!

Oops!!! Almost a cropper

We have often heard (mainly from women) “Woman – cold; man – flu”. We have discovered the Tanzanian equivalent.

2 weeks ago Dr Corrie began coughing, had a head ache and felt rough. Sensibly she had a malaria test – negative. Must have been a cold.

As we said last week, Irene then began coughing, had a head ache and felt rough, so under protest had a malaria test – negative. Another cold.

This week Malcolm started coughing, felt tired and had a temperature so, thinking it would be a waste a time but to in order to please the women, he had a malaria test – positive!!! You must be joking!!!

So “Woman – cold; man – malaria!!!!”

(Reason - Women probably don't ever actually catch flu or malaria - only ever a cold. They just think its worse???)

We used to think malaria is the worst possible illness to get because of tales of explorers in the 19th century. It is still a major killer in Africa. However, in the months before we came we met two couples who had been here for a few years and in both cases the husband had caught malaria – and although you might take all necessary steps to prevent it, (pills, sprays etc) you can’t prevent catching it but can only reduce the risk. (We did ask Dr Corrie whether men were more prone to malaria than women – in her professional opinion only because mosquitoes find it harder to hit a moving target, whereas men do a lot less work and a lot more sitting around!!!!)

Although Malcolm spent a day or so taking it easy and sleeping (and proving Dr Corries point!), now that he’s taking treatment he’s back at work and keen to go on holiday next week. He’s also looking forward to having a good excuse when he doesn’t quite feel like doing something (like the washing up, shopping, clearing up, talking etc etc etc)

Irene has also had her fair share of excitement. She was, once again, happily sitting, bare-foot, in the hot records office sorting out a pile of files when a Tanzanian worker came in. Suddenly, the Tanzanian gave out a yelp, picked up Irene's shoe, brushed Irenes waist with it, and stamped his foot. What is this? Some new form of ceremonial greeting ritual that we hadn't been told about? Irene looked down and saw a fairly large, but now dead scorpion by her side. And it was too late for Malcolm to take a photo of it!!!

We had a good weekend in Dodoma which included dinner at the best restaurant in town (the Dodoma Hotel Chinese restaurant), an evening with the American Financial Director at the new Christian Medical Centre and family, and lunch with a family from New Zealand. The only disappointment for Irene was that the swimming pool at MAF was closed for maintenance (which was one of the main reasons for going there). However, she compensated for this by using the pool at the Dodoma Hotel.

Looking at last weeks questions:

- Will Malcolm have enough money to persuade NSSF and the Magistrates Court to lift the threat of a large fine on the Hospital and custodial sentence for someone? The Hospital scraped together half now (Tsh 7 m - £3400) with the promise we will find the other half next month

- When Irene has sorted out the files, will the carpenter arrive to put in more shelves (meaning she’ll have to start sorting them out once again)? Irene has given up waiting for the carpenter. We have worked out the real meaning of the Swahili word ‘kesho’. All the language books will say it means ‘tomorrow’. It means in practice ‘not today’. So - when will the carpenter come? Kesho.

- What will the Task Force say to the Bishop at the close-down meeting, and what will the Bishop reply? There hasn’t been a close down meeting. Unfortunately the Bishop’s schedule has had to be totally reorganised due to new commitments

- Will son David and friend arrive safely in Tanzania for the holiday, and negotiate the journey to Mvumi? They arrived safely but then hit problems. On the way to the hotel David arranged for the taxi to stop at the bus station to pick up tickets for Mvumi. When he returned the taxi, friend, luggage and everything had gone. Knowing of tales of white-slave trade etc, and unable to contact his friend he tried to get in contact with the hotel to find out what had happened. Later the taxi returned for the driver to say he had to get a puncture repaired. As the journey continued the taxi was delayed by another fault. The driver then demanded:
i) payment for the puncture repair (about 80p)
ii) additional fare ($40 instead of $25) because the journey took longer than planned

- How will Irene manage being a year older? Like an expert!!!!!


Next week promises a whole new change of pace:
- Introducing David to the real Africa of Mvumi (where you are treated more as an oddity than a tourist to be fleeced) before flying to the Tourist areas of Arusha for a Safari and Zanzibar for relaxation

- No work, no filing, perhaps no Internet but lots more mosquitoes, tse-tse flies and wild animals
- From economic to expensive living (says Malcolm)

- From basics to luxury and pampering! (says Irene)

PS. If you search for Mvumi on Google maps for some reason it will pinpoint somewhere in the African wilderness.

If you find Dar es Salaam, scan 600 km westwards along the railway line to Dodoma, andthen south 40km along a rugged country oad you will find an aerial view of the Hospital.

Alternatively, use the following link. The photo is a few years house but our house is the one with a white van in the forecourt, North east of the 'H' complex of the hospital ward and right of the '(' shape of the nursing school hostel.

A spot of bother as the race nears its climax.

‘At least this time your phone has been behaving itself’ said Malcolm’s mother towards the end of their conversation. Just then they were immediately, and uncannily, cut off.

Murphy’s Law, ‘If it can go wrong, it will go wrong’ was designed for Tanzania. Quite often when we phone England, or use the Internet, we cut off for no apparent reason (To be honest the incident above was because the money on our mobile phone ran out). Usually we put it down to the environment / wind or technology. It can’t be poor reception as the 200 foot phone mast is only 100 yards away from our front door!

Just before Simon and Laura moved out of the house in July they replaced the handle on the toilet. That broke this week so we are pulling the plunger by hand until a replacement is fitted.

The pump that gets rain-water out of the underground reservoir to the hot water tank failed just after we moved in (perhaps all the water has been used – we don’t know as we can’t find the key to the reservoir padlock). Because the mains stop-cock had jammed it had to be replaced before Hospital water could be used instead. In the meantime Malcolm has been going up into the loft to fill the tank with a bucket so Iren can have hot showers – and managed to put his feet through the ceiling in the process.

Last Saturday there was a power failure that affected a large region of Tanzania for over 24 hours which meant we had to cook by kerosene stove, and eat and read by candle-light. The fridge, and 2 kg of prime pork, defrosted over night leaving a large puddle on the kitchen floor. It meant that not only were we in the dark, but we could no longer rely on Hospital water as this depends on an electric pump. We were asked when it was last like this in England – 150 years ago? We remember the 3 day week in the 70’s. Most of the villagers wouldn’t have known about the power cut since very few people have electricity or running water in their homes.

However, we did think the power cut would be a good opportunity to look at the night sky without any lights to spoil the view (the night sky is usually very dramatic because there are no street lights etc) – only there was a full moon which meant it was brighter outside than inside and we could see very few stars.

On Sunday Malcolm took Squashy for a walk through the village to an area they hadn’t visited before. Squashy is normally very good and was off the lead. Malcolm was talking (in pigeon Swahili / Chigogo) to an elderly gentleman when suddenly about a dozen piglets ran across the street. This was too much for Squashy. He immediately ran after one of them and picked it up by its neck. Despite Malcolm’s shouts, running after Squashy, falling over and trying to hit him with his lead he only managed to get Squashy to drop the piglet, chase after it and pick it up again about 5 or 6 times. With all the noise a crowd of villagers came out to see what the commotion was. Malcolm eventually caught Squashy and was trying to make a dignified exit when someone tried to tell him that the piglet was ‘dead-ee and said he needed to pay. The last Malcolm had seen the piglet was alive and anyway he had no money. So he insisted he needed to see. The piglet was cut, bruised but definitely ‘alive-ee’. We think we’ll try to avoid that area in future.

Later that day, on the way to the shops, two lads approached Malcolm. ‘Asking for money’ he thought. But no. He had dropped his mobile phone and the two boys just wanted to return it. As they left Malcolm called afrer them to give a reward. It’s the first time we’ve given money to strangers here, despite being asked dozens of times.

Irene was unwell earlier this week – stomach upset and head-ache – potentially some of the symptoms of malaria. Following the advice of Dr Corrie (who said that she didn’t want to have to say the next day ‘I told you so’) Irene, under protest, went to the Hospital for a malaria test – it was negative. She has now recovered and taking delight in saying ‘I told you so’.

It has been a bad week for our house-help, Mama Asante. A few weeks ago her brother was in a car accident in Dar es Salaam and suffered a broken arm and stomach injuries. This week he died, maybe because the Hospital failed to spot internal bleeding until too late and he died whilst on the operating table. It’s a reminder that in Tanzania we can’t take for granted the kind of medical care we have in Britain.

We are currently having a long weekend in Dodoma as a respite. The bus journey from Mvumi is often eventful. This time we were held up by a lorry that had rolled over. Unfortunately we understand a child may have been caught underneath and died.

Work is becoming more intensive as the weeks run out – with a two week holiday coming we now have just 15 working days to go. In the past week:

- although the visit to Dar es Salaam to discuss Designated District Hospital status was cancelled, the Hospital’s chief nurse did manage, whilst at a conference, to meet with the Ministry of Health to discuss the impact on staff. We have now sent a list of all staff and their pay-scales to the Ministry of Finance and it is just possible they will agree to pay most (or at least more than they do already). This would significantly relieve the Hospital’s financial problems – but it may not happen.

- Unfortunately, the Ministry of Finance is also changing the way it calculates the grant it pays the Hospital for medical salaries – which means we are still waiting for the grant for August – which means the Hospital hasn’t been able to pay staff – which means staff are not happy.

- Irene has given up waiting for more shelves, and is now putting the files into order using the limited shelving available.

Our highlight this week was Irene’s birthday. Thanks to everyone who sent cards and greetings. Malcolm was brave enough to buy her a shawl (brave because 2 weeks ago Irene had spent a couple of days going around all the shops in Dodoma looking for a shawl and finding none she liked). Dr. Corrie invited us round for a meal and a banana and nut birthday cake. Irene is now enjoying a weekend in Dodoma with the promise of a meal at the Dodoma Hotel’s, very smart, Chinese Restaurant. She had been looking forward to swimming in the MAF Guest house pool – Unfortunately its closed for maintenance!!

Despite everything, it has been quite a good week!!!!!

Next week is the last before our two week holiday, and promises:
- Will Malcolm have enough money to persuade NSSF and the Magistrates Court to lift the threat of a large fine on the Hospital and custodial sentence for someone?

- When Irene has sorted out the files, will the carpenter arrive to put in more shelves (meaning she’ll have to start sorting them out once again)?

- What will the Task Force say to the Bishop at the close-down meeting, and what will the Bishop reply?

- Will son David and friend arrive safely in Tanzania for the holiday, and negotiate the journey to Mvumi?

- How will Irene manage being a year older?

Going round the final bend

When we were expecting visitors, it used to be we’d worry about clean sheets , towels and the house would be just right. Now the priority is to make sure we save the brand of toilet paper that at least tears off cleanly rather than the brand that falls apart when you try to tear it!!!!!

As I’m writing this we have no more than 19 working days left, plus a two week holiday, so we are beginning to think about getting ready to pack up. In many ways it seems we’ve only just arrived – in others we’ll be glad to return to the UK.

Malcolm has found the last week quite hard. Thursday was probably the low point. There had been a management meeting about the money we need to pay to end the court case. The school Principals seemed to understand the problem but there is no certainty that they can or will provide any funds as they only have limited balances and willingness. At the end of the day we are guests here so there is only so much you can do. Next week there should be a meeting with the Finance Officer of the Diocese who is actually the person we think will represent the Hospital at the court hearing, so he will be very concerned that the Hospital finds the money to ‘get out of jail’.

What crowned Thursday was that Malcolm managed to kill the back-up computer in the Pharmacy. It wouldn’t power up and while trying to work out if it was something simple, there was suddenly a pop and a cloud of black smoke came out of the power unit. In England it would be simple – pop down to PC World and buy a replacement. But this is Tanzania. Fortunately it was not the Pharmacy’s main computer system.

With about six weeks to go we are preparing for a flurry of social events. Next week is Irene’s birthday so we plan a long weekend in Dodoma. A week later our son and friend come for a two week holiday so we have been sorting out a safari and stay on Zanzibar. We had booked a safari park in a non-tourist part of Tanzania about 300 km away – nice and quiet. However, it was then suggested that it would be good to travel further to the Ngorongoro crater reserve in North Tanzania – a much more spectacular place. The only problem is (and for Malcolm a key issue) it will cost over 4 times as much (4 times as much!!!!!!) and is in the most busy, touristy part of Tanzania. But, who knows, we may not have another chance to go there.

After that we will have 2 weeks to pack up – and probably attend a wedding of one of the Doctors, which should be interesting.

So for next week:
- Malcolm should have been going to Dar es Salaam on Monday to discuss the future of the hospital as a Designated District Hospital with the Ministry of Health - cancelled for the fourth time!!!!!!
- Irene’s birthday and a long weekend in Dodoma
- still waiting (yet again) for more shelving – Irene is thinking it won’t happen before we go
- Task Force Management Team discuss with the Bishop what happens after we leave in October
There are videos on Youtube – search for ‘thecrawfordclan’