Keep on going

We have been here for two months now and are getting into a routine. What used to novel is now becoming a matter of course.

Our normal weekday usually starts at dawn which is always 6 o clock; its hard to sleep after that as a whole chorus of cockerels crow together and most of the locals are up and about singing or chatting as they move around. We have a pathway down the side of our house and a “road” (dirt track) at the back and as windows are never shut noise travels well.

Malcolm still gets up first to take Irene a cup of tea in bed (bless him). The making of tea depends on a number of things. As we don’t have drinking water, we place plastic bottles of tap water in the sun during the day to sterilise the water. It then goes through a proper filter to remove any nasties before used for drinking, cooking or making tea. Milk comes from the Walton’s cow, but before use has to be heated, strained and cooled to remove other nasties like brucellosis. You can then make tea.

Malcolm then often goes to a 7.30 students service. He enjoys the Hymns, which are Swahili words to often familiar, old hymn tunes and picks up the occasional bit of Swahili in the talk.

The working day is 8.00 to 4.30. Everything stops for tea at about 10.30, well everything except Malcolm! and Irene usually goes to his office for tea and a Mndazi (a type of doughnut). Irene is still spending most of the day sorting out the medical files – she’s almost broken the back of that – but unfortunately has also hurt her own back in the process!!!

Malcolm’s day is more varied. He’s recently been preparing the budget, improving the spreadsheet payroll system, trying too find out the Hospital’s debts etc. Once a week there is a Management meeting with all the Task Force, Heads of Departments and School Principals.

After lunch (about 1 pm) the work (but not usually Malcolm) officially ends at 4.30pm and the afternoon seems very short – no time for another tea break!!!!

We have a ‘maid’ (Mama Asante) who comes at 7.30ish and on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and works till 2pm for about £4 a week – a good wage locally. A Gardener (Stephen)comes once a week for a couple of hours to keep the site clean (and free from snakes and scorpions!!!)

Evening meals are fairly basic, a mixture of Tanzanian and English. We are eating less meat and more beans and rice but also potatoes, carrots and cabbage. No convenience meals here although occasionally we make semolina pudding or crumble (Malcolm’s Banana and orange crumble was a recent success)

In the evenings (it gets dark about 7pm all year) Malcolm often works, or tries to get information from the Internet. Our biggest single expense is the modem recharge cards – about £15 per week. Irene sews, read or plays on her D.S. Sometimes we watch a DVD (about £1.50 to buy with 18 films on one DVD).

In many ways a lot of the things here are like Britain 50 years ago, and that includes our kitchen. Electricity has been reasonable so far though we have the occasional black outs and hot water would be nice but you soon get used to heating it up. At least we have running tap water at the moment. It’s hard to imagine what it must have been like before the mobile phone masts arrived in the last few years bringing communication and the Internet. We’re not sure we would have wanted to be here without them, as it is invaluable for keeping contact with family and the rest of the world.

At the weekend we have either gone to Dodoma or just ambled around the market and village here. You can get most essentials here if you are happy to eat Tanzanian style and only need to go to Dodoma for mzungu food (mzungu is any white person – when we walk around the village often young children shout ‘Mzungu! Mzungu! Malcolm has learnt to say in Swahili ‘Mzungu! Where? I can’t see a Mzungu' which confuses them but amuses him.

We go to a local church where we sit on hard benches with no backs (we have found some near the wall to lean back on) and Laura Walton translates if the sermon is in Swahili though sometimes they speak the local tribal language of Chigogo so she is lost then too. The services should start at 10, usually start about 10.15, most people arrive after 10.30 and they finish about 12.30.

We have had one or two little rambles round the village but its a bit hot for going too far until the evening and then the mosquitoes are out ! The area around is very beautiful, I suppose the nearest thing in Britain would be the Scottish highlands or lake district without the water, and the sky at night is incredible, with no street lights and few clouds the stars are really obvious and bright.

Around the hospital (and whole village really) you find lots of stray dogs, they all seem to be pretty friendly and don't pack together or bark much as one might expect. Strangely enough we have not seen any dog mess at all. Probably because the poor things hardly get any food or maybe the local insects clear it away. Other local animal life includes wandering pigs, chickens, goats and lots of lizards, not to mention some peculiar insects.

Well – we hope that has not been too dull!!!! But in many ways this is just as normal as living in the UK.

Looking forward to next week:
· we are staying this weekend in a guest house at the Mission Aviation Fellowship complex in Dodoma. Hot water, a swimming pool for £11 a night
· we are waiting for a response from the Revenues Authority about the Hospital’s tax affairs
· a meeting of the Diocese’s Health Board which will discuss the Hospitals Budget
· having a stock take of the medical stores
· Irene will pick up her second outfit from the ‘fundi’.

Over we go!!!

It is now mid-winter. It feels like a nice summer’s day though occasionally it has been windy. No chance of snow then!!! (or rain)

Some small, potentially significant events happened this week.

Following last week’s meeting with the Tax Inspector Malcolm drafted for the Bishop a letter to the Revenues Authority expressing concerns about how the Hospital has managed its tax affairs and inviting the Regional Manager to make an assessment. It will be interesting to see how dramatic the response is, and how they deal with the fact that all records to the end of December 2007 have disappeared with the previous accountant!!

Malcolm has also started preparing the statutory 6 month statement of each employee’s tax position – (this is not a requirement in the UK as the UK system is more sophisticated). This is probably the first time the Hospital has carried out this procedure. So far it shows that most staff had too much PAYE deducted – but this was a period when there were no allowances or arrears paid which in the past probably have not been taxed even though they should have been. Malcolm anticipates some adverse reaction from staff when they are properly taxed for, possibly, the first time on these – no-one likes paying taxes.

On Thursday, because the cashiers had run out of receipt books and no-one was around who knew where the new books were. Malcolm took the opportunity of re-introducing the cash till. This had been used some time ago but by one means or another the cashiers managed to return to hand-written receipts. Not now (at least, not yet!!!). Despite some teething problems the till seems to be working well and is much quicker for the cashiers to operate and finance staff to check the total cash that should have been collected.

Irene continues with the filing. In some ways the worst is over as most of the files which were in random order are now sorted. However, the shelves are almost full and there are a lot more files to move to the new filing room. A carpenter will create more shelves, but this will mean moving the existing ordered files – there is a good opportunity for the files to get out of order again, and all the good work to be undone. Malcolm doesn’t want to be around if that happens!!!!! She had a bit of excitement on Friday. She was sitting doing some filing when a scorpion came out from a pile of files and headed quickly towards her feet. Fortunately Bernard leapt into action and killed it before she could find out what the scorpion had in mind!!!!

For relaxation Malcolm took the Walton’s German Shepherd dog, Squashy, for a 3 hour walk on Saturday – at least it would have been 3 hours but Squashy is rather unfit. This meant that for a fourth hour he virtually crawled back, resting every 200 yards or so in the shade of a tree. Little does he know he’s going out again this weekend – lets see if we can make him a bit fitter!!!!

On Sunday we were guests of honour at St Andrews church for a fund raising service for one of the choirs. Because of other activities, such as communion and the election of church elders, the service took about 4 hours in total. However, it was most enjoyable – and we were surprised and honoured when we were chosen as ‘Honorary Elders’ – which we think means we will be asked for further donations, but won’t have to go to meetings – well worth it. The service was followed by lunch at one of the member’s houses. Only the third occasion so far we have been inside a villager’s house.

When we first arrived at the hospital Malcolm was introduced to a former Chaplain, Stanley. Unfortunately he died suddenly on Saturday and the funeral was held on Monday. As well as chaplain he was also a well known personality and evangelist, and much loved. For someone who lived modestly and had a humble background the service was attended by probably 1500 people, was led by the former Archbishop of Tanzania and a former prime-minister (and school friend) attended and spoke. This was the second Tanzanian Funeral that Malcolm attended so he was prepared for, and carried out the custom of entering the house to give condolences to the widow, and to join a procession to view the body before it was buried in a concrete lined grave (to prevent grave-robbers).

Finally, Irene picked up her new skirt and top from the ‘fundi’. At first she was concerned that the top looked too small, but when she put it on it almost fitted perfectly, being tailored and fully lined – and all for £4. She can’t wait to order more!!!

So, another week is over – another week to come. At the moment we are not too sure what is happening – anything could happen!!!

· we hope to book a guest house at the Mission Aviation Fellowship complex in Dodoma for a break one weekend – Irene wants a hot bath!!!!! (Malcolm doesn’t)
· another walk for Squashy?
· will the Revenues Authority receive the letter from the Bishop? How will they respond?
· finalising the Hospital’s draft budget
· having a stock take of the medical stores
· Irene may order a second outfit from the ‘fundi’, and move on to organise the medical stores

Up to the hurdles

It’s been a week of variety and challenges.

Saturday started with a short stroll, of about 5 miles, to the next village. It started off fairly mild (being winter) but got quite hot by midday so we were pleased to have a soda break when we got there (and even more pleased to get a lift back!!!!) It is harvest time so we passed a number of ox carts – including one having its puncture repaired – and saw a number of creatures including snakes and lizards. Although the road is the main road from Mvumi to the city, Dodoma, and villagers are used to seeing white people travelling in cars, as we entered the village Malcolm was interrogated by a policeman about where we were from, where we were going, why had we come to the village, how long were we staying, and why we were walking and not in a car. He concluded they are not used to ramblers!!!

Even more excitement when we returned. There was clearly something going on in the Dining Hall 200 yards away from our house with a lot of load music, so Malcolm went across to have a nose. After a couple of minutes someone came out to ask if he’d like to come inside and sit down. Although everyone was dressed up smartly and he was still in walking boots, dirty jeans and scruffy tee-shirt he thought he could sneak in at the back. However, as soon as he walked in the master of ceremonies announced, in Swahili, that the hospital accountant was here and Malcolm was escorted up to sit on the front table as one of the guests of honour at the graduation ceremony arranged by the Tanzanian Christian Students Association for those graduating from the colleges – quite an honour which included shaking hands and having his photo taken with all the graduates, and lunch. Irene knew little about this until he returned 2 hours later!!

To make up for it Malcolm took Irene to a local restaurant for a romantic meal that night – a regional delicacy chips mayai – or chip omelette. With coke, a cake and coffee. Total cost Tsh 4,500 – about £1 each. Malcolm knows how to treat a lady (just a shame he never does it!!!)

We have got slightly closer to Tanzanian culture in other ways. A couple of weeks ago we mentioned in our blog someone coming to the door to sell a live chicken – Malcolm ducked the opportunity. This week Irene couldn’t resist, and bought a cockerel. That night we put him in the shed and fed him (Malcolm called him Percy – perhaps he’s missing pets) – and now he has returned the compliment by feeding us (courtesy of our house worker). The good news is that he was not a factory produced, chemical injected, chicken; but totally free-range, organic (and a bit tough as well).

On Thursday Irene went to a neighbouring village for a very large, monthly market where all sorts of produce is sold, including meat. The animals walk to the market, are slaughtered and butchered in the open and leave in carrier bags. The joints of pork she brought back were fresh, and still warm. Malcolm is relieved he stayed at work!

The week for Malcolm has focused on preparing briefing notes for a number of stakeholders. After several years of poor financial management issues are coming to a head. On Friday Malcolm went to Dodoma and met with:
- the Chief Administrator and Personal Assistant to the Bishop to outline the substantial tax and other debts the hospital has accumulated (equivalent to about 40% of its turnover) and the ongoing deficit of over 10% of turnover and current year deficit of 40% of turnover. The cash sums aren’t large by UK standards, but enormous here. There are a number of causes to why this financial position has occurred – the most critical being this years’ increase by Government of the pay of medical staff by over 57%, but so far only an increase in the grant to pay the salaries of about 20%, increasing the hospitals costs by about Tsh 140 million a year (on top of a deficit of Tsh 60 million. To quote Mr Micawber (Malcolm’s patron saint) ‘ annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure twenty pounds, ought and sixpence, result misery’

- A Tax Officer of the Revenues Authority about concerns about the way the hospital has dealt with Income Tax in the past

- The Hospital’s external auditor about arrangements for this year’s audit, and the unpaid account for the 2005/06 and 2006/07 audits. These will be qualified due to lack of proper accounting records.

On the whole, despite the message, they seemed pleased that someone is at least assessing and reporting the problem. Unfortunately previous management seem to have taken the less advisable maxim of Mr Micawber ‘Something will turn up’ and didn’t address the financial issues when they should have done

All are pleased, that is, except for the Union Regional Officer Malcolm met on Wednesday with the rest of the Management Task Force. When he was asked if the meeting could be in English insisted that it be in Swahili as we are in Tanzania (which Malcolm said would be a bit of a problem as he would be speaking in English and couldn’t answer any questions asked in Swahili!!!!). However, to be fair:
- in England it would have been in English no matter what language other people spoke
- his attitude overall was similar to union officers Malcolm worked with in England. Financial problems are an issue for Management as long as workers aren’t affected (despite it being explained that the money just isn’t available to pay the staff on time – and soon not at all unless something drastic changes)

On Thursday we went after work for a picnic with the Waltons and Dr Corrie (a Dutch VSO) to an area which is flat marshland in the rainy season but dry now. We ate sausage in bread, home made Cornish pasties with Branston picle (a delicacy!!!) and home made chocolate cake. We left after we’d seen the first stars (which are brilliant as there is no ‘light pollution’ from towns or street lamps here. A most enjoyable outing, and only one lady carrying a water bucket on her head from the well to her house some distance away stopping to wonder what these mad Mzungu’s (white people) were doing.

Finally
We have put up a new video on Youtube of the congregation at St Andrews church, Mita on 1st June 2008. The link is:
http://www.youtube.com/v/RC5WQoTHMN0

or search on the user name - thecrawfordclan

So – for next week:
· putting the Hospital’s draft budget to the Management Board (probably Monday or Monday week) in advance of the meeting with the Diocese Health Board on 3rd July
· Irene to pick up her skirt and blouse from the ‘fundi’ (worker)
· yet more filing for Irene , and sorting out clothes donated for poor village residents
· we are guests of honour at a fund raising lunch for one of the youth choirs at St Andrew church on Sunday (the choir our house worker, Mama Asante, belongs to)

Onwards and upwards?

This week has been one of settling into routine, and improvements.

Because we planned to stay in Mvumi for the weekend rather than have a shopping expedition to Dodoma, Malcolm went for an exploratory walk south of the village which took 3 or 4 hours. He headed for a nearby hill to get what he hoped would be a panoramic view of the hospital. He took what looked like the nearest footpath up the hill, but eventually it petered out near the top and he ended up in tall shrubby thorns and managed to almost destroy his tee-shirt – Irene spent some happy moments picking thorns out of his back and sewing up the tears in the shirt. Unfortunately, when he reached the top the summit was covered in the same bushes and the view was limited. He did meet Peter cutting wood at the top (he’s not sure why Peter went all the way to the top to cut wood when there was plenty near the bottom) and managed a short conversation (Peter has five children - watato watanu).

Irene's highlight was visiting the special care unit for new-born babies. There were three tiny premature babies that stole her heart. The facilities are basic. No incubators here - they are kept in baby baths (no water of course) and warmed by heat lamps - very sweet. It made all the filing worth-while.

We get a range of people at our door (not knocking but shouting ‘Hodi’ to attract our attention) selling items or simply begging. On Sunday a man ‘Hodied’ carrying a live hen by its legs. If the villagers need money suddenly they often have to sell something to raise the cash – in this case a hen. Neither Malcolm nor Irene fancied killing the hen (although Irene would have been happy to pluck and gut it), and in any case chickens here are scrawny and do not have the meat on that those sold in Sainsbury’s have. About half our meals are based on meat – about half on beans.

Monday – visitors to the Hospital. A group of health staff and priests representing Atlanta Cathedral visited as part of a whistle stop tour of projects in the area. They are assessing needs in order to recommend to the cathedral where donations should be made. And we had for lunch - rice and chicken – I wonder if the one from Sunday was in the pot??

And Malcolm went to the dentist. Having been to one in Chesham before we left (to make sure we wouldn’t need treatment here) within 2 weeks a bridge fell out and then a filling came out. Fortunately there is a new Dental practice based just outside Dodoma, on the site of a new Hospital (yet to open) which is very slick. Dr Charles did an excellent job and the bridge feels better than it has done for some months, and all is now well. However:

- there were no other patients, we think that day. As a private, new clinic most locals wouldn’t be able to afford to pay (charge for Malcolm was about £18 all in) and business has not built up.
- The facilities and equipment are excellent, though its very communal. If there had been other patients we would have been treated in tha same, open plan, surgery.
- Malcolm soon realised, being the wimp he is, that there would be no injections for drilling out the old filling. Fortunately Dr Charles was very quick

The rest of Malcolm’s week was mainly spent preparing for and paying the payroll. Previously there have been no payslips and staff were paid to the nearest Tsh 5000 shillings below the net pay (about 1.5 days work for the lowest paid, or £2) which meant a lot of time spent ‘bartering’ for change. The system now provides a ‘proper’ payslip and it would have paid to the nearest Tsh 50 shillings, but the bank couldn’t provide sufficient change (it is only a bank after all!) so the staff were paid to the nearest Tsh 500 with the promise that the balance would be paid next month – all seemed happy. Because of the lack of money we were a week late in paying and now have the problem of finding enough cash to pay the Income Tax and National Insurance equivalent by the end of the month.

Irene is breaking the back of the filing system – and probably breaking her own back at the same time. Having roughly sorted the piles of files she first had, more are now being brought up and she is concerned there is no space to file them. The ‘highlight’ of the week was the invasion by a swarm of bees that seem to have nested in the store room adjoining the filing room – anyone for honey??

She has also been checking out the Secondary school’s electric sewing machine. He staff thought it was broken because no-one could get it to work – nifty Irene has sorted out the problem, and its fine.

The Hospital budget is still a challenge. A major problem is that the Government has increased the pay of staff on Government pay scales by 57% but the grant by only 25%. This means that if the Hospital pays the higher salary, it would lose and additional Tsh 130 million a year, on top of its existing losses. The Hospital Manager did try and see the Minister of Health this week to discuss this and other issues, but was unable to do so.

We have uploaded a second video on Youtube (user – the crawfordclan). Its mainly a slide show of the fundraising Garden Fete held on 17th May by St Andrew’s church. The link is:

http://www.youtube.com/v/lgGaB7NVsjg&hl=en

So – onward to next week:
· yet more work on sorting out the Hospital’s budget in preparation for a meeting with the Diocese Finance Board sometime after 19th June
· Irene to find a ‘fundi’ (worker) to make a skirt and blouse
· yet more filing for Irene
· book somewhere to stay in Dodoma next weekend
· and, hopefully, no dentist!!!!!